ESP8266 0-10v Dimmer

This is a lighting control board with 2-channel 0-10V outputs for controlling dimmable LED lights, and two relays for directly switching 220 volt lighting.

DISCLAIMER: Mains voltage can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. If you're not familiar enough with both low and high voltage electronics to independently validate my design, don't use it. This is offered for free, I accept no liability for electric shock or fire or anything else. That said, I've used two of these boards to control my garage lights (4 rows) for three years now with no issues.

The 0-10V output is generated from 3.3V PWM outputs of the ESP8266, low-pass filtered, and then amplified with an LM358 OP-AMP which is powered from the 12V boost converter, for a perfectly clean and stable 0-10V variable output with no trace of PWM.

I ordered the boards from JLC with all the SMT components factory soldered, then soldered the through-hole components myself, all sourced from aliexpress.

Here's a list of the additional components required.

One Wemos D1 Mini ESP8266 microcontroller. The ESP32 version on the market will not fit on this board as it is physically too large, but you could use my own ESP32 D1 Mini design available here.

Two female 2.54mm pin headers, 1x8 (for mounting the Wemos D1 Mini)

One female 2.54mm pin header, 1x4 (for the optional 433 MHz receiver module)

Male 2.54mm pin header for soldering power supply (PSU) and boost converter to the main board. Cut to length.

PSU needs 1x2 and 1x3 male header. Pull the middle pin out of the 1x3 header.

PSU: 220V (or 110V if that floats your boat) to 5V power supply module. Search for "mini ac-dc 5v" on aliexpress.

Boost converter module, to generate 12 volts for the op-amp. Search for "MT3608". Adjust output to 12 volts.

Cut four male single pins from the male header and use them to solder the boost converter to the main board.

KF15EDG 2P and 3P terminal blocks pluggable connectors, for 220V input, 220V output, and 0-10V output.

392 fuse, 500 mA. This fuse protects from catastrophic failure if the PSU were to short-circuit.

PTF77 fuse holder for a 5x20mm glass fuse, 22mm pitch. This fuse protects from catastrophic failure if the lights were to short-circuit. I use a 5 amp fuse.

LF3F relay, 5V coil. You can use a songle if you like but I've had better luck with these. Songle relays tend to weld their contacts together in short order.

That's about it. I don't have any software to recommend (I write my own as needed) but I'm sure ESPhome or Tasmota could be coaxed into controlling this board, there's really nothing to it.